Dishitsup - Sydney Morning Herald

Simon Thomsen shares his favourite dining moments of the month.

Roast suckling lamb at Da Gianni Trattoria

You almost feel guilty for eating something this tender and beautiful. Almost. Giovanni Spinazzola, who first wowed us at Paddingotn’s Bistro Moore, is now master of his own cheerful domain: a relaxed, smartly casual restaurant (the formal Three Clicks West) where a bowl of pasta and glass of vino go hand-in-hand. Spinazzola draws on his southern Italian heritage to create simple, bold dishes that give his own distinct perspective to traditional regional food. His Roman-style roast suckling lamb ($29), initially marinated, then braised with white wine, tomato and fresh herbs, is roasted for a crisp, yet succulent finish, then bathed in rosemary-perfum juices.