Category: Our reviews
Trattoria Town
Small is beautiful in Sydney these days, thanks to the new breed of neighbourhood trattoria that blends cosy spaces and simple, regional flavour. Here’s a taste from four of our favourites.
Review by Sarah Macdonald
After attracting attention at Paddington’s Bistro Moore, and brief stints at Ecco in Drummoyne and Jaspers in Hunters Hill, roaming chef Giovanni Spinazzola (pictured) has finally settled into his own restaurant. And what’s more, Da Gianni Trattoria in Annandale is just streets away from his neighbourhood in Leichhardt, Sydney’s Little Italy.
Part of the inspiration for Giovanni’s menu stems from his mum’s Southern Italian cooking. “I don’t try to create new dishes, I bring the classics back to life,” Giovanni explains of this dish. “I learnt to make the sauce in Tome, and the gnocchi is made just like Mum’s.”
Dishitsup - Sydney Morning Herald
Simon Thomsen shares his favourite dining moments of the month.
Roast suckling lamb at Da Gianni Trattoria
You almost feel guilty for eating something this tender and beautiful. Almost. Giovanni Spinazzola, who first wowed us at Paddingotn’s Bistro Moore, is now master of his own cheerful domain: a relaxed, smartly casual restaurant (the formal Three Clicks West) where a bowl of pasta and glass of vino go hand-in-hand. Spinazzola draws on his southern Italian heritage to create simple, bold dishes that give his own distinct perspective to traditional regional food. His Roman-style roast suckling lamb ($29), initially marinated, then braised with white wine, tomato and fresh herbs, is roasted for a crisp, yet succulent finish, then bathed in rosemary-perfum juices.
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